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The orinui pattern of "teeth or molars" that this stitch
technique produces. I used a bright purple cotton knit,
and with the indigo blue, the purple looks pink. |
One of the best (maybe THE best) part of indigo dyeing is the surprise of seeing the change in color from what you put in the vat, to the odd but lovely teal/turquoise as it oxidizes in the air, to the final lovely blue.
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Adding the indigo powder to 3 gallons of water. Then
Thiox and soda ash will be added, GENTLY stirred, then
left to sit for 30 mins. before starting the dyeing. |
You start by soaking the fabric in water. (Because water molecules are larger than dye molecules, when put in the indigo vat, the indigo will only go where there isn't a resist, e.g., stitching, rubber bands, tightish wrinkles.) The fabric/yarn, etc., is pulled out of the water in which it's been soaking, squeezed well, and put in the indigo vat. If the vat has just been started, 1 or 2 seconds can be enough to produce a medium to dark color. The more it's used, the longer time it needs to be left in the vat.
The vat can be resuscitated/revived that day if the color gets pale by adding 1 to 2 tsps. of Thiox. (I've revived pre-reduced indigo vats 11 months after its initial used with this method!)
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Lari's cotton yarn that she wrapped in
sections (ikat) to produce a varigated
striped yarn. |
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The white cotton yarn
goes into the vat. |
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The "white" yarn comes out seconds later
as a teal/turquoise, and.... |
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The "white" yarn is oxidizing in the air and gradually
will come to its full blue color. (Also wish it could
stay this lovely teal/turquoise....) |
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There are so many possibilities in using resists to create pattern. At
the left is a shirt that was wrapped around a PVC pipe (top wrapped
first and ending on outside is the bottom) then wrapped with string so
the most graphic part in which the indigo dye hit first is on the bottom. The right 2 most pieces used folding and clamps to resist the dye. |
